Perhaps my favourite day of fashion week - menswear day really is so intriguing as it seems to be the designers that are producing the most fashion forward yet relevant collections with all garments sharing a true street style conviction. Everything is exciting, fresh, current and wearable - the perfection combination to any collection. With the most exciting designers coming from the NEWGEN and FASHION EAST installations here is a small selection of my favourites from the day:
MAN SS12: SHAUN SAMSON
First up is Shaun Samson's eagerly anticipated SS12 collection a newcomer to the MAN line up. Shaun has been on my radar for a while now ever since seeing his St Martins MA collection and watching him win the highly desirable "Collection of the year award" At ITS#10 earlier in the year. Already seen as the "one to watch" from all the menswear shows this year Samson really is leading the way in refreshing street style silhouettes. Taking inspiration from his upbringing in San Diego and his time spent in LA surrounded by surfers/ 90s grunge and the gangster rap movement. Shaun fuses together colourful Mexican stripes, a bright and bold colour palette bound together in a collection of cotton shirts, tunics and skate shorts.
KTZ - SS12 KOKON TO ZAI MENSWEAR
KTZ killed it once more this season! Although KTZ is primarily a unisex label it was the menswear that really caught my eye at LFW. Fusing a kaleidoscope of inspiration: 90s grunge, graffiti slashed street wear and Amazonian tribal prints. It was the tribal aspect that really got my heart in a flutter. With my own label taking huge influences from every aspect of the African / Haitian way of like particularly in terms of culture and religion (Voodoo etc) I also take huge influence from African styling in terms of hair, make up and bright and bold self expression. Therefore it was intriguing to see another label that I hugely appreciate drawing inspiration from similar themes and interpreting it in there own way. Focusing on the African expression of colour and the passion of the people the KTZ show blasted out some High energy Bold pieces with Colourful, tribal and in your face ghetto influences translated into bomber jackets, voluminous netted pieces, slogan prints, cargo shorts, leather tailored shorts and some high towering ethnic jewellery. KTZ’s ruthless combination of textures – leather, netting and jersey, and intricate details – buckles, chains and beading made for a spontaneous and unexpected show with the menswear featuring rough and edgy designs, cut to showcase attitude and arrogance.
FASHION EAST - AGI & SAM SS12
And saving the best for last Agi & Sam were my absolute favourite from menswear day. Since discovering the label late last year I have been in awe ever since! The SS12 collection has moved on a lot from the 90s humorous fresh prince prints going on in there AW11 collection. This season takes inspiration from the mexican architect Luis Barragan, Dy-lan and the Bisbee deportation a maturer collection in terms of theme and garment silhouette but staying strong to the brands ethos of interesting high-end garments but at mostly affordable prices injecting the fun into fashion with exquisite colour, beautiful prints and unapologetic styling. The collection entitled "Tobasco, Tequila and Tomato Juice" is a fusion of (what I'm guessing) Vincent Van Gough brush strokes, rainbow dip dye, Mexican wrestlers and woven textiles. Everything has been closely though over in this collection from the model casting, overall styling, smashed pottery surroundings and paint drips down to the fantastic shoe collaboration with Osborn shoes - loafers covered in Agi&Sam original prints. PERFECT.